Multiple Exposure - Image Bank

Animated Gif - technique

To create my animated Gif, first of all, I took a series of images that documented somebody climbing up a scramble net. I kept my camera in one place, mounting it on a tripod to avoid camera shake. I shot my photos on 1/125 to make sure there was no motion blur and an aperture of f8 to achieve a wide depth of field.

I used photoshop to make my animated gif, though you can use premier pro. Firstly, you open up all your images in photoshop, using the first image in the series as a base and adding the other images in order on top as layers. You then go to window > show video timeline, then create a frame animation timeline at the bottom of the page. All of your images should now be visible on the timeline. You can drag them out so that they are in order, then drag the edges of each photo to change how long you want it to display for, until you have a compilation of images that play in order to create a video. You then click on where it says once, underneath the timeline, and select forever, meaning your animation will loop. To save your gif, you must go to export under file and select "save for web", selecting "GIF 128 dithered as your export setting. You can now save your finished .gif file.

Multiple Exposure - Definition

In photography, a multiple exposure is the superimposition of two or more exposures to create a single image. It is sometimes referred to as double exposure, which is when there are specifically two exposures made into one image. These can be made using in camera settings that impose a set amount of images together or through overlaying images in Photoshop.

Here is an example of a double/ multiple exposure image. You can clearly see that there are two exposures that make up this image; an exposure of the man and an exposure of the city, which have been imposed together to create the image. This was likely made using an in camera setting that imposes multiple images together.

Multiple Exposure - Technique

Some Cameras have a built in setting that can create multiple exposure images within the camera. To access this, you need go into your main settings and find a setting titled multiple exposure. You can choose how many exposure you would like to use for your final image, which is usually 2 or 3. You will want to turn auto gain off, as this while brighten your images.
If you want to take a high key multiple exposure portrait, you will need to turn your camera's metering mode into spot metering, and then set your shooting mode to aperture priority mode. When taking your image, you make your focus point in the middle then take a picture of your subject on a completely white background. You then up your exposure compensation by 2 stop and take a photo of what you want to overlay onto the portrait. If you don't have multiple exposure settings on your camera you will need to overlay the images on Photoshop.

To create a multiple exposure image on Photoshop, firstly, you open the two images. Next, you need to drag the image of your subject on top of the image of your background. You then change the overlay settings to screen. You can now flatten your finished edit.

Multiple Flash - Work Diary

For my Multiple Flash shoot, I decided to use the studio instead of on location, due to being able to control my light settings more and not having flash equipment that I can bring to a shoot on location. I used spotlights as my flash, which had to be triggered manually, meaning I had to borrow somebody else to trigger it.

This is my favourite photo from my multiple flash shoot. This was taken with an exposure of 6" and an aperture of f16. One of the thing I like about this photo is how it's framed; there's not a full face shown in the frame, which I feel goes with there being several faces in the image in creating a very surreal atmosphere. I also like the use of colour and tone; there are not bright colours in the image, with almost the entire image consisting of black and white, barring the pale muted shades of the faces. The small range of colours creates connotations of fear and sadness. There has also been effective use of tone in this photo as there some very pale and light tones shown in my subject's face, as well as very dark tones shown in his shirt and the background. This creates a wide tonal range.

This is an image from my shoot that I feel didn't go well. This was also taken on 6" and f16. One of the main thing I feel went wrong with this photo is the framing; some of the wall is visible next to background, which ruins the effect of complete darkness shown in the other photo, meaning there is less of an atmosphere of sadness made. I also feel I used too long an exposure for the movements I directed my subject to do in this shot. I shot on a 6 second exposure, and my subject had extreme movements, therefore the resulting image couldn't quite capture strong snapshots of stages in his movement. The fact he moved so much meant there were not any points where you could clearly see him in shot, which I feel takes away from the effect the photo should have had.

I am unlikely to use this technique in my project, because although it interests me, I don't own equipment that will make this possible on location, and getting access to it may be expensive. However, if I am able to access this equipment, I may be able to incorporate this into some of my shoots in Urban areas.

Multiple Flash - Straight Images

Multiple Flash - Technique

A multiple flash image is a type of long exposure image. It involves taking a photo with a long exposure, but you trigger a flash multiple times during the exposure of the photo. Because of this, you have to use some kind of external flash, whether it's an on camera flash gun or triggered studio softlights. If you use an on camera flash, It will need to be one that you can set to fire multiple times, which can be expensive, therefore I used normal studio softlights and triggered them manually.

For multiple flash photography, you will want to shoot on a tripod. This is because you will shooting using long exposures, and a result, there will be dramatic camera shake at the slightest movement. You will likely be shooting on an exposure of anything over a second; the longer the exposure, the more times you will be able to fire the flash, therefore the more stages of movement you will be able to display. Because the exposure is long, you will need to use a high f stop in order to limit the amount of light that enters the shutter. As for the flash, unless you have a flash that you can set to trigger several times during the exposure, you will need to trigger the light manual during the exposure.

Multiple Flash - Image Bank

This multiple flash image has used lots of flashes; 16 to be exact. Because of the amount of flashes, this has likely been shot on a very long shutter speed, perhaps 6". This image creates the effect of a person walking.

This image also has had the flash fire many times, as there are a lot of stages of her movement shown. This was likely to be a slightly shorter exposure, perhaps 3 or 4 seconds, as this was likely a fast movement.

The image above is a multiple flash image with considerably less flashes taking place than in the other two. you can see around eight different positions in which the flash has fired. This has likely been taken on an exposure of around 3 seconds

This image captures a very large amount of movement; it also differs from the previous images by having four subjects instead of one. The fact they are moving within a small space has created a blur effect, as each snapshot of movement has merged into the others

The image above is a much simpler multiple flash image than most; there have only been three flashes during the camera's exposure, which I would guess is around three seconds. This is different in that you was not moving large amounts during the photo; she moved from position to position, freezing each time, which means there are three clear images of her in the photo

Multiple Flash - Definition

Multiple flash is a technique that incorporates several flashes within one exposure. You will need either one flashgun that will fire several times, or several flashguns to fire at intervals. The resulting image will show several stages of movement, each lit up by flash.

Here is an example of a multiple flash image. From this image, you can see how she moved; starting with her arms by her side and moving them up before putting her hands together above her head. You can see four different positions in her movement, meaning the flash has been fired four times during an exposure of around 3 seconds.

Sequencing - Technique

A photo sequence involves taking several photos of some kind of motion with the camera kept in one position. Once you have taken the photo, you need to edit the images together into Photoshop, creating a photo sequence that shows various stages of one motion.

You will need:
A camera
A tripod

It's recommended that you shoot on a tripod, as small differences between each frame made through camera shake will be very noticeable when you put your images together.
You should shoot using a fast shutter speed, anything above 1/125, as this will stop the movement blurring in the resulting photo. You could shoot using a fairly high f stop in order to create a wide depth of field, as this would mean in each picture you take, everything will be in focus.

Sequencing - Definition

Sequence photography is the technique of shooting a series of images in where the subject is captured in successive motion. Sequence photography is a good way to show the movement of an object or person; it's similar to stop motion animation, as it creates a sense of motion from a series of photos, however, instead of a moving image, it's a still image.
Here is an example of a photo sequence. This image is made up of eight images that have been placed together in Photoshop, likely through cutting each image of the person out and pasting it onto the first image taken. This image shows the motion of a windsurfer jumping off the surface of the water and landing again.

Animation - Definition

Stop motion animation is an animation technique that puts a set of still images together to make something that appears to be moving. It is often used to animate models, such as lego and clay models, though it can be used to make a series of photographs of a person into an animation in which they move, or any other series of photos into a moving video.

Here is an example of the use of stop motion animation in photography. This has been made into a .gif format, meaning it loops infinitely. This animation has been made up of 51 frames, meaning it has a low frame rate, which is clear from the jerky movements of the subject. Some photographers use a low frame rate to make it clear that it's not actual motion, which I think was the intention with this animation.

Slow Sync - Work Diary

For my slow sync photoshoot, I shot in the studio, as I had access to the softlights and a remote flash firer, which would create a stronger flash than my on-camera flash. I decided to use two subjects for my shoot, and directed them to move in large movements, as I thought this would create a large amount of motion blur, which is what I wanted to achieve for this shoot.





Here is my favourite photo from the my slow sync shoot. I feel that this was successful as a slow sync photo as you can see where the flash is fired on my subject in the foreground, lighting up her face. That part of the photo also shows her face before she started moving fast and blurring, which I liked because it creates two different effects in the same picture. I also like that this her face face, when visible in the foreground, is strongly in focus, and that the blurring of her movement has created a light trail that almost completely conceals the person she is running around. I shot this image with a shutter speed of 1" and an aperture of f9, meaning just enough blur was created that you can still see some elements of human form through the heavily blurred movement.  The use of flash and movement together means the resulting image has a large tonal range, with some dark tones shown on clothing, and very light ones on the blurred hair.


This is an image from my shoot that I feel didn't go very well. I shot this image on 1" and f9. While this image effectively displays the slow sync technique, as the blurred subjects have clearly been lit from a flash, I was unhappy with the way this image was composed. The subject on the right doesn't quite fit into the frame, therefore some of the blur effects from her movement are not captured in the photo. I also feel there was too much distortion from the blur effect with the subject on the right; unlike the picture above, in which you could see a clear image of the subject's face as well as a light trail of their movement. However, there is a small example of this from the subject on the right, as you can see a light up version of her face on the right, as well as the blurred light trail of her movement.

This technique might be something I will use in my personal project, as I feel that slow sync flash would work well incorporated into the street photography elements of my project. However, it may be harder to achieve without studio flashlights and on location; you will need to be taking photos of people, and you will need to be very close to your subject, especially if you would be using an on camera flash like I would be, as the flash won't reach far.

Macro - definition

Macro photography is a type of close up photography that involves making small things look larger than life. Macro photographs are generally taken within 30cm of the subject, using a lens with a focal length of 50mm or more. The closer you zoom into your subject, the more detail you will be able to capture. Here are some examples of macro photography.

This image has an incredibly narrow depth of field; only a small part of the already small object is in focus, while the rest is heavily out of focus. You can see where the focal zone is based on the line that is in focus along the surface that the nail has been placed on. Where the nail is in focus, you can see a very high level of detail. You can see some extremely rough textures in the metal, as well as some rust near the bottom of the nail, which is a muted shade of red.

This is a photo that has been taken from a very close up perspective, most likely using a lens with a focal length over 60mm. This image also has a very narrow depth of field, with just the letter U in focus. Around the letter, there are some very bumpy textures shown in close up detail.

Blur - Work Diary

For my Blur photoshoot, I decided that I wanted to shoot on location, because I wanted to find some candid opportunities to capture motion blur. First, I went to a busy road near me to try and capture some cars in motion. My second location was just outside my town's bus station, on top of a multi story car park, as I wanted some bird's eye view blur shots of buses coming past.

Taken on f14, 1/10 exposure

This is my favourite image from my blur photoshoot. I shot this on a very busy road near the town, just after the traffic lights had turned green. I liked this photo because of the way it's framed; the two cars are both fully in frame and the image was shot when they were almost in the same position, meaning there is a large amount of motion blur captured. Also, I liked the use of a wide depth of field, as it meant both cars were in focus. Additionally, it was exposed well; the basic features of the cars are visible, whereas if it had been overexposed, it would have been unclear what the blurring in the photo was. As well as being a successful blur image, I think this image successfully incorporated the formal element. For example, The photo features some leading lines, shown through the curbs at the side of the road and the white lines on the road, both of which lead you to the cars. It also features a wide range of colours; there are some muted shades of red on the buildings in the background, as well as the shades of black on the cars. There are also some saturated shades of green shown on the trees in the background.

 
Here's an image that I feel was less successful. Although there's lots of motion blur shown in this image, I was less  happy with how this image was framed than the previous image. While the previous image kept the motion blur framed in shot, this had lots of the motion blur out of the frame, which I feel was less effective. I also feel that this image had too much in the foreground; this was due to the time i took the picture, when there was lots of cars driving across the road at once. The large amount of foreground in this photo means that there is much less of the background visible, which reduces the depth shown in the photo. However, due to there being more cars in the photo, this image can be used as an example of the formal element of form. Each car would be considered a form, as would the building in the background.

This is a technique I will almost definitely use during my project. The majority of my project involves capturing burst shots while moving in a car and putting together in animation, therefore motion blur can be something I can explore within this.

Blur - Straight Images

Slow Sync - Straight Images

Blur - Image Bank

Slow Sync - Image Bank