If you want the background to be overexposed, you will need to make your backlights brighter, meaning the background is overexposed and the subject in the foreground. You will need to measure the light levels using a light meter.
You will shooting using f 8, which is what your key light is set to, therefore you must set the backlight to f11 or f16, as this is one or two stops more exposed than the key light.
Showing posts with label technique. Show all posts
Showing posts with label technique. Show all posts
Tuesday, 4 October 2016
Thursday, 29 September 2016
Animated Gif - technique
To create my animated Gif, first of all, I took a series of images that documented somebody climbing up a scramble net. I kept my camera in one place, mounting it on a tripod to avoid camera shake. I shot my photos on 1/125 to make sure there was no motion blur and an aperture of f8 to achieve a wide depth of field.
I used photoshop to make my animated gif, though you can use premier pro. Firstly, you open up all your images in photoshop, using the first image in the series as a base and adding the other images in order on top as layers. You then go to window > show video timeline, then create a frame animation timeline at the bottom of the page. All of your images should now be visible on the timeline. You can drag them out so that they are in order, then drag the edges of each photo to change how long you want it to display for, until you have a compilation of images that play in order to create a video. You then click on where it says once, underneath the timeline, and select forever, meaning your animation will loop. To save your gif, you must go to export under file and select "save for web", selecting "GIF 128 dithered as your export setting. You can now save your finished .gif file.
I used photoshop to make my animated gif, though you can use premier pro. Firstly, you open up all your images in photoshop, using the first image in the series as a base and adding the other images in order on top as layers. You then go to window > show video timeline, then create a frame animation timeline at the bottom of the page. All of your images should now be visible on the timeline. You can drag them out so that they are in order, then drag the edges of each photo to change how long you want it to display for, until you have a compilation of images that play in order to create a video. You then click on where it says once, underneath the timeline, and select forever, meaning your animation will loop. To save your gif, you must go to export under file and select "save for web", selecting "GIF 128 dithered as your export setting. You can now save your finished .gif file.
Multiple Exposure - Technique
Some Cameras have a built in setting that can create multiple exposure images within the camera. To access this, you need go into your main settings and find a setting titled multiple exposure. You can choose how many exposure you would like to use for your final image, which is usually 2 or 3. You will want to turn auto gain off, as this while brighten your images.
If you want to take a high key multiple exposure portrait, you will need to turn your camera's metering mode into spot metering, and then set your shooting mode to aperture priority mode. When taking your image, you make your focus point in the middle then take a picture of your subject on a completely white background. You then up your exposure compensation by 2 stop and take a photo of what you want to overlay onto the portrait. If you don't have multiple exposure settings on your camera you will need to overlay the images on Photoshop.
To create a multiple exposure image on Photoshop, firstly, you open the two images. Next, you need to drag the image of your subject on top of the image of your background. You then change the overlay settings to screen. You can now flatten your finished edit.
If you want to take a high key multiple exposure portrait, you will need to turn your camera's metering mode into spot metering, and then set your shooting mode to aperture priority mode. When taking your image, you make your focus point in the middle then take a picture of your subject on a completely white background. You then up your exposure compensation by 2 stop and take a photo of what you want to overlay onto the portrait. If you don't have multiple exposure settings on your camera you will need to overlay the images on Photoshop.
To create a multiple exposure image on Photoshop, firstly, you open the two images. Next, you need to drag the image of your subject on top of the image of your background. You then change the overlay settings to screen. You can now flatten your finished edit.
Wednesday, 28 September 2016
Multiple Flash - Technique
A multiple flash image is a type of long exposure image. It involves taking a photo with a long exposure, but you trigger a flash multiple times during the exposure of the photo. Because of this, you have to use some kind of external flash, whether it's an on camera flash gun or triggered studio softlights. If you use an on camera flash, It will need to be one that you can set to fire multiple times, which can be expensive, therefore I used normal studio softlights and triggered them manually.

For multiple flash photography, you will want to shoot on a tripod. This is because you will shooting using long exposures, and a result, there will be dramatic camera shake at the slightest movement. You will likely be shooting on an exposure of anything over a second; the longer the exposure, the more times you will be able to fire the flash, therefore the more stages of movement you will be able to display. Because the exposure is long, you will need to use a high f stop in order to limit the amount of light that enters the shutter. As for the flash, unless you have a flash that you can set to trigger several times during the exposure, you will need to trigger the light manual during the exposure.

For multiple flash photography, you will want to shoot on a tripod. This is because you will shooting using long exposures, and a result, there will be dramatic camera shake at the slightest movement. You will likely be shooting on an exposure of anything over a second; the longer the exposure, the more times you will be able to fire the flash, therefore the more stages of movement you will be able to display. Because the exposure is long, you will need to use a high f stop in order to limit the amount of light that enters the shutter. As for the flash, unless you have a flash that you can set to trigger several times during the exposure, you will need to trigger the light manual during the exposure.
Monday, 26 September 2016
Sequencing - Technique
A photo sequence involves taking several photos of some kind of motion with the camera kept in one position. Once you have taken the photo, you need to edit the images together into Photoshop, creating a photo sequence that shows various stages of one motion.
You will need:
A camera
A tripod
It's recommended that you shoot on a tripod, as small differences between each frame made through camera shake will be very noticeable when you put your images together.
You should shoot using a fast shutter speed, anything above 1/125, as this will stop the movement blurring in the resulting photo. You could shoot using a fairly high f stop in order to create a wide depth of field, as this would mean in each picture you take, everything will be in focus.
You will need:
A camera
A tripod
It's recommended that you shoot on a tripod, as small differences between each frame made through camera shake will be very noticeable when you put your images together.
You should shoot using a fast shutter speed, anything above 1/125, as this will stop the movement blurring in the resulting photo. You could shoot using a fairly high f stop in order to create a wide depth of field, as this would mean in each picture you take, everything will be in focus.
Tuesday, 20 September 2016
Blur - Technique
blur is created through using long exposures to capture motion. To create a blur style image, you need to set your shutter speed to something under 1/60 of a second, the speed of the shutter depending on how fast your subject is moving. Due to the length of the shutter speed, lots of light will be let into the shutter, therefore it is important to set your aperture to a high f stop value e.g f16, as this will create a narrow opening at the end of the camera, restricting the amount that is let in. You will also need to adjust the ISO settings to 100, which means the camera is not very sensitive to light. In addition to how you set the camera, you will need to use a tripod, as a long shutter speed will mean the camera will be more susceptible to camera shake.
Blur - Definition
Blur is a photographic technique that involves capturing motion using a long exposure. The result is an image of movement that has been distorted and the subject is less distinct than it would be from still photography.
Slow Sync - technique
Slow sync flash is just a fancy term for using your flash with a slow shutter speed. It helps you keep your subject sharp while capturing motion or a dark background.
Firing
the
flash at the start of the exposure is known as "front curtain" or
"1st curtain". Firing it at the end is known as "rear
curtain"
You will need
A Light source
A tripod
A subject
Lightmeter
Dark background
Snoot
Modelling light (bulb within the soft light)
Wednesday, 7 September 2016
Location Portraiture - Definition
Location portraiture is a type of portrait photography that takes place on location somewhere in the outside world rather than the typical studio environment in which a portrait is taken. Many Location Portrait photographers such as Alec Soth use it as a means of telling stories of an individual, meaning they often fit into the category of documentary photography.

Tuesday, 6 September 2016
Location Portraiture - Technique
When taking a location portrait, there are certain pieces of equipment and techniques to use. You will need to use tripod when taking the photo, as you want your camera to as stable as possible. You are going to be using a very fast shutter speed, maybe around 1/200 of a second. In order for the subject of the photo to stand out, you will need to make sure that you focus upon them sharply and shoot on an aperture of f5.6, which will create a narrow depth of field in which the foreground will be sharply in focus and the background will be completely out of focus.
Wednesday, 15 June 2016
Wide angle close up -Technique
Wide angle closeup photographs are photographs in which the camera is positioned close up to the subject, and the lens if fully zoomed out
.
This is an example of a wide angle close up image. Due to the lens being close and being taken at a wide angle, there is often some distortion of the image. The wider the lens, the more distorted your subject is going to be.
To achieve a wide angle closeup shot, it is recommended that you use a lens with a focal length of 18mm or less and position your camera 20-30cm away from your subject. A wide aperture may be useful too, as it will create a narrow depth of field for your subject and make sure the area you want to be focused is sharply focused.
.
This is an example of a wide angle close up image. Due to the lens being close and being taken at a wide angle, there is often some distortion of the image. The wider the lens, the more distorted your subject is going to be.
To achieve a wide angle closeup shot, it is recommended that you use a lens with a focal length of 18mm or less and position your camera 20-30cm away from your subject. A wide aperture may be useful too, as it will create a narrow depth of field for your subject and make sure the area you want to be focused is sharply focused.
Macro - Technique
To create a macro image, you need a macro lens. Macro Lenses are designed to take pictures extremely close up to the subject.
To create my Macro photos, I went into the studio. I used a camera with a macro lens on a tripod, which was positioned around a meter from the background. My subject stood close up to the background and I used various parts of their face as focal points to create my photos.
1:1 magnification is life size
1:2 magnification is half of life size
1:10 would a tenth of life size, which isn't a macro photo.
It is recommended that you use a tripod when taking macro photographs, as camera shake will be much more visible when you are so close to your subject.
To create my Macro photos, I went into the studio. I used a camera with a macro lens on a tripod, which was positioned around a meter from the background. My subject stood close up to the background and I used various parts of their face as focal points to create my photos.
1:1 magnification is life size
1:2 magnification is half of life size
1:10 would a tenth of life size, which isn't a macro photo.
It is recommended that you use a tripod when taking macro photographs, as camera shake will be much more visible when you are so close to your subject.
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